Slovak Tokaj Practical Info and Tips

Slovak Tokaj is small, rural and easy to visit, as long as you plan around one habit: most things here happen by arrangement.

Money

Currency: Slovakia uses the euro. Across the border in Hungary, prices are in forints (HUF).
Cash or card: carry euros in cash. Some small operators take cash only, including the kayak rental on the Bodrog, and at a family cellar you shouldn't count on a card terminal. Get cash in Košice or Trebišov before you arrive.

Languages

Slovak is the official language. Hungarian is widely spoken along the border and in the villages to the south-east, and every village also has a Hungarian name: Malá Tŕňa is Kistoronya, Viničky is Szőlőske. At a larger winery such as Tokaj & CO you can have a tasting in English; at a family cellar, ask when you book. A few words go a long way: dobrý deň (hello), ďakujem (thank you), na zdravie (cheers).

Tourist information

The Tokaj Tourist Information Office of the Tokaj Wine Route association is at Dlhá 230 in Čerhov, next to the railway halt (+421 915 999 009, info@tokajregion.sk). It has maps, local products, a wine shop and tasting room, event tickets, and bikes and e-bikes for hire. It is open during events and otherwise by phone arrangement. Online, see the association's tokajregion.sk (it also has a mobile app) and the regional tourism board's kosiceregion.com.

"By arrangement"

The region has 42 registered wine producers, many of them small family cellars without opening hours. To arrange a visit:

contact them a few days ahead by phone or email
say how many of you are coming, which language you prefer, and whether you want food or plan to buy wine
check the minimum group size: J & J Ostrožovič and Víno Vdovjak, for example, take groups of four or more
confirm the day before, arrive on time, and call if your plans change

Visiting a cellar

It's cold. Tuff cellars stay at about 10–12 °C and are humid all year. Bring a layer and wear shoes with grip.
Expect steps. Most historic cellars are reached by stairs. The tasting cellar of J & J Ostrožovič, 13 metres underground, has a lift.
Children. Some wineries don't allow them in the cellar (J & J Ostrožovič admits no children under 15), so ask first.
Private property. The cellar lanes are protected monuments, but each cellar belongs to a family. Go in only with the owner.

Accessibility

Historic cellars, cellar lanes and vineyard paths are difficult for wheelchair users and anyone who can't manage steps. A few places are easier: the lift at J & J Ostrožovič, an accessible room at Hotel Brigadír in the Borša manor, and the museum in Trebišov, whose exhibitions are all accessible with a stairlift. The lookout tower has a car park, but the views are from the top of its stairs. Ask each place about your needs.

Phone and internet

With an EU SIM card, the EU's "roam like at home" rules apply in both Slovakia and Hungary. Near the border your phone may switch to a Hungarian network, so check the costs if your SIM is from outside the EU. Expect little or no signal deep in a tuff cellar.

Safety and emergencies

112 is the European emergency number and works in both Slovakia and Hungary.
Slovak numbers commonly listed for specific services are 155 (ambulance), 150 (fire) and 158 (police).
Summers are hot, with average July highs of 27.4 °C. Carry water and sun protection on vineyard walks.
If you walk between villages at dusk, wear something light-coloured or reflective.

Alcohol and driving

Note: Slovakia and Hungary both have zero tolerance for alcohol when driving: the limit is 0.0 ‰, not "a glass or two". Take the train, agree on a designated driver who drinks nothing, or stay overnight. After a long evening tasting, alcohol can still be in your blood the next morning.

Buying and taking wine home

Most wineries sell bottles at the cellar, and the wine shops in Čerhov stock several producers. In plain words, and not as legal advice:

Within the EU. Wine you carry yourself for your own use is taxed in the price you paid, so no further tax is due in another EU country. Customs may judge personal use by how much you carry and how it is packed. The EU guide level is 90 litres of wine (of which up to 60 litres sparkling), and countries may set higher guide levels but not lower ones.
Outside the EU. Different allowances apply when you bring wine into a non-EU country (or back into the EU from outside). Check your home country's customs rules before you buy a case.
Flying. Pack bottles in checked luggage, wrapped well. Hand-luggage limits on liquids apply.

Official details are on the EU's Your Europe website.

Respectful behaviour

Vineyards are workplaces. Stay on the tracks and don't pick grapes; in autumn, botrytised berries hang on the vines for a late harvest.
Churches. Many village churches open only for services. If you visit, dress modestly and be quiet.
Nature reserves. Places such as the Tajba reserve near Streda nad Bodrogom protect rare species, so follow the posted rules.
Two languages, one landscape. Slovak and Hungarian Tokaj are one historic wine landscape divided by a border, and both Slovak and Hungarian are spoken here. Be curious, and leave politics at home.

Practical information